WITH the eventing season under-way and the show season fast approaching, it’s time to take stock of the different kits you might need to take with you to a competition. During the summer months, many shows will be taking place on grass and, factoring in Ireland’s typically unsettled summer weather, you may require a stud kit (see details above).

Steel studs are used to provide the horse with extra traction. For studs to be used, a farrier must first prepare the horse’s shoes by drilling and then tapping holes into the heels and occasionally the toes of the shoes.

Have rubber, cotton or foam plugs on hand so that they can be inserted into the stud holes as soon as the holes are made. Plugs and blanks protect the threads so that your studs fit optimally and it will save you a lot of time in cleaning and re-threading or tapping the stud holes when you’re ready to use the studs. Repetitive tapping can cause crossed-threads, which are a hassle and time consuming to deal with.

If you’re new to using studs, firstly consult your horse’s veterinarian and farrier - the use of studs in combination with some hoof and leg conditions is not recommended.

When preparing for a big competition on grass, it’s important to train the horse on turf so that the horse knows how to slip a little bit and get its confidence. If you have done the majority of your work on an all-weather arena then your horse has to readjust.

At this time of year, get your horse out of the all-weather arena and onto the surface you will be competing on. Bring a couple of fences out into the field and allow him to jump them in slippery, boggy, greasy conditions, and allow him to get back to basics and to get back to nature. Horses will slip – even with big studs they will slide that little bit, but after a while the horse will get their footing, and will use the slipping momentum to negotiate the fence.

SELECTING STUDS

In racing and polo there are rules and regulations as to what types of studs can be used in competition, however, there are no official guidelines or limits regarding the use, type or length of studs within eventing and show jumping.

Before you head off into the season – think – do I need studs and if so do I need the amount of studs I am using? Less is more, so try to stay natural.

Many factors go into the selection of studs:

  • Judge the type of footing first.
  • Next consider your horse’s specific needs or preferences. Is your horse sure-footed or does he need assistance?
  • The type of riding and riding level also have an impact on stud selection.
  • Always choose the smallest studs that will suffice for the occasion.
  • Try to use more blunt studs on the inside so that there is less chance of the horse striking himself and causing injury.

    • Master farrier Andrew Mahon has the following advice to offer horse owners: “The hind end is the horse’s engine – it’s what propels the horse forward. The weight ratio of the horse falls between 60% - 65% in front and 35% -40% behind. The front feet are bearing the weight of the horse, whereas the foot behind has to propel the horse forward and needs the grip there. So I would usually put two studs in behind, a slightly higher one on the outside, and a nice safe smaller one on the inside, which will still allow some pivot to happen. Think before you stud – as studs do affect the flight of the horse. I do question the height and the sharpness of studs. Stud guard or no stud guard, injuries occur. The higher you go doesn’t necessarily give you more grip but it can give you added problems.”

    If you are competing and will be using studs from time to time, have an assortment on hand to accommodate the varying types of footing you might encounter at a competition, having a few extra of each type, in case a stud is lost, is always a good idea.

    INSERTING STUDS

    1. Insert studs just before you need them, a horse should never be put on a trailer or left unattended while wearing studs.

    2. As was mentioned earlier, ideally you will have inserted plugs into the stud holes to protect the threads and save you time when it comes to inserting the studs. If this is the case, remove the plugs with a sharp tool, such as the pointy end of stud hole cleaner. Remove blanks, if you’ve used them, with a blank wrench.

    3. If you have not used plugs then there will most likely be debris lodged within the stud hole. Use a stud hole cleaner to remove debris in the stud hole. Clean your stud holes a day prior to the show, so you are not under pressure for time.

    4. You can sharpen the threads in the stud holes using the tap. Insert the tap into the hole and twist it. The Safety Spin Tee Tap has a unique design that stops the tool from going too deeply to reach the sole of the hoof, and is designed to protect the horse’s foot if it slams a hoofdown during the process. Standard tee taps are shaped like a “T” to fit in your hand for turning.

    5. Making sure each stud is level with the stud hole, insert and hand-tighten the stud. You can then secure the stud by twisting it further with the wrench.

    6. After the competition, remove the studs as soon as possible and refill the holes with plugs.

    7. A stainless steel magnetic Dish is a handy tool to keep your studs together when you are fitting and removing them. If you’re at a competition that lasts several days, the magnetic bowl is handy because it can hold your selection of studs throughout the week so that you don’t have to sort back through your stud supply each day.

    STUD care

    Unless cleaned and lubricated, studs will rust easily while they are being stored. To save yourself the time and hassle of having to remove rust from your studs with a wire brush before the next time you use them, after each use, wash the studs off in water, dry them thoroughly and then spray them with oil.

    It’s a good idea to line the stud sections of your kit with paper or cloth and spray them with an oil such as WD40, this helps keep the studs slightly oiled and less likely to develop rust over time.